China's Rise in Fashion

It seems that fashion is heading East. China has opened up a market for luxury fashion, but will the world be watching China's own emerging talent?



(Left: image from American Vogue, dress is from Rochas. Right: imagery from Ports 1961 SS 2006 collection)

When I was just out of design school, I thought about the option of going abroad for post-graduate studies in Paris. I contacted an alumni who was happy to answer my questions about the program I was interested in. To my surprise, ok well not really, the economic downturn has really affected the job market in Parisian fashion. You could do countless internships at major fashion houses and still not land a secure job. The alumni I contacted, she was from China, she had stayed for a bit after graduation but was actually going back to start her own label. After that, I decided not to bother with the lengthy application process.

I was watching part two of China's Rise last night. It's a CBC documentary that will be eventually shown all over the world, but of course Canada was the first to view it. Essential viewing to anyone interested in finding out what the new wave of China is like. The documentary makes some points about fashion in Shanghai: You are what you buy .

China is making efforts to rebrand its cultutal identity through Shanghai's development as a new world. A dreamy yet modern city with parts of it that takes after the like of Paris. This is where the new yuppie generation resides. Fashion has become a major part of its development as a cultural center. Five years ago, you couldn't buy a Louis Vuiton wallet in China, wealthy Chinese would voyage to Paris for their LV status symbol fix. Today, Shanghai houses every luxury fashion brand imaginable.

The word is that Ports is a success story in China. Ports is as recognizable as Chanel or Prada. A Canadian brand that I hadn't heard about in the news for a long time. In the "absence", Ports relocated to China and was refocusing it brand for the Chinese market. The brand does well for its approach: clean-cut designer-ish clothes at a fraction of a designer price tag. Their Ports 1961 brand, a higher end line, uses fabrics imported from Italy combined with the lower cost of labor from Chinese workers, makes a winning combination for those who seek value in what they buy. The womens line is surprisingly beautiful, the brand has come a long way to make itself desirable, but it seems that it is being missed under the fashion radar.

Though foreign companies have made its way into China, what will China's exports be? China is trying to shed its sweatshop labor reputation and promoting its own young emerging designers. It seems that every world capital that wants to revamp their image is doing it through fashion. But it still has a long way to go before anyone goes beyond New York, Paris and Milan. London is only recently gained its notoriety. It would take a lot more than a fashion week to shift their attention.

This post is a part of The State of the Fashion Union blogging carnival. It's a countdown to New York Fashion Week, and you can find out more about this event through Almost Girl or FashionTribes.

Japan- A Crafty Nation

Young Japanese people may be known for their style, but did you know that "crafts" are just as style driven?


(Aren't they just devastatingly chic? Both book covers from Buzzville)

When someone comes home from Japan, everyone wants to ask, how was the food, did you eat sushi everyday? Was the fashion just to die for? Did you ride the bullet train? But does anyone ask, did you check out the craft stores? (Room comes to a screeching halt)

Yeah, I mean the crafts, DIY stuff. It's not just about folding paper cranes and hand made paper, you know. Japan has an advanced approach to DIY.

I met a Japanese girl when I was staying at a friend's flat in London. I felt that she was terribly stylish. She wore this beautiful floral skirt. I found out later that she has made it herself. No, she's not a fashion student, she studies set design, not quite the same thing... but maybe it is?

Handicrafts are an essential part of the Japanese tradition. Though the traditional crafts are better left to amuse tourists, today's "craft" is relevant and shockingly desirable. This is where you can say, Martha Stewart, eat your heart out.

Hundreds of Japanese craft book series are available in bookshops, even in those non-specific to crafts. Books are beautiful styled, with precise attention to detail, no styling prop is an accident. They take European influences in their approach. They are often more French than the French. You can find books to specific to making clothes, accessories, supercute dolls and not to mention the countless titles for knitting and crochet. In many cases, you will find yourself standing in the bookstore, how many of these can I afford to take home.

Okadaya in Shinjuku is a craft supply shop in Tokyo. The store houses everything from craft books to faux fur for teddy bear making, to wigs and costume make up (This is wear Harajuku girls stock up on gear fir their next costume).

One last note about Japanese craft books. Don't fret if you aren't going to Japan any time soon. You can find a lot of them on eBay or other bloggers offering items up for auction. And though books are written in Japanese, they come with very detailed diagrams or schematics. The books are already a worthy buy just for its pictures!

This post is a part of The State of the Fashion Union blogging carnival. It's a countdown to New York Fashion Week, and you can find out more about this event through Almost Girl or FashionTribes.

JPG Does it Again!

(Left, JPG Spring Couture 2006. Right: from 1961, Hepburn as Holly Golightly, she's just timeless)

Jean-Paul Gautier for Spring Couture 2006 was simply to die for. Sarah Mower calls it the look, "a corps of Parisian Bond girls setting out on an impossibly chic Greek odyssey". I'm not sure if I agree with the Bond girl description, but doesn't the silhouette look familiar? The look is totally Audrey Hepburn, if the story of Holly Golightly were to be redone today, this is what she would be wearing!

This post is a part of The State of the Fashion Union blogging carnival. It's a countdown to New York Fashion Week, and you can find out more about this event through Almost Girl or FashionTribes.

The iKnit generation

(Both images taken from Style.com. Knitting is the New Om)

Ever since I started Fable, I knew that I would be reaching out to a new generation of knitters. I just didn't know that it would be the people around me! So far, many friends have expressed an interest in knitting. My pal from NY came home this Xmas and told me she started learning from her mom. Her mom, who's complained that she never likes what she knits for her. I found this to be really exciting as it is a way for different generations to relate. The language of knit, something so simple can bring people together.

My best friend started learning to knit, she made a scarf for her boyfriend this Christmas. She knits when it's not busy at the store she works at and customers are just in awe of it. One said, "it's a dying art you know, my wife still know how to do it". Little does he know, she's been telling her pals at school about me, and they think it's supercool and that they've been having the urge to knit. Her pals, 20-something year olds, armed with ipods and Internet, by golly, they want to knit!

So what is it with generation, that they want to knit? Somehow knitting has been revived as "being really cool" or anti-mass consumption. Gen Y has been bombarded with messages of consumption and conformity. They're cynical of cookie-cutter ideals, and finally, they want something that is their own. A main focus in fashion has been all about being "yourself". Though vintage clothes and limited edition clothes may let you express some uniqueness, knitting lets you create your identity from scratch.

In this digital age, no one has to feel alone in their knitting. There are over 2000 blogs about knitting! How many blogs of another category can say that? There is a real sense of community that knitting has brought- common ground between women and a growing number among men. Just the other day, the guy from MenKnit.com was on the CBC! Internet has really propelled the knitting movement. For once people can sit at home on the computer and share witht he world what they've been knitting. Did you know someone has designed a mittens psttern where you can keep your ipod? A technology and craft fusion! Anyone who still thinks knitting is for grandmothers is stuck in 1990, when knitting was not so hot and Gen Y was still in grade school.

Ever since we went digital, everything has been digital, nothing is "real" anymore, no longer tangible in your hands except stuck inside a glowing box. Crafting in general has been also receiving a major comeback. No longer is a craft fair about handpainted flower pots and tea towels, ok maybe it still is, but it's relevant to our generation. People are getting crafty in general and you'' see that all over the internet.

As a final note on a general trend that is regardless of age, Domesticity is in. That's right, after a generation of feminist messages about sharing the housework, we can say being domestic is in. Notice how home-oriented we've become? When we're not cooking and cleaning in style, we're picking out the reading about it in Martha Stewart Living or watching it on Desperate Housewives or Nigella Lawson.

This post is a part of The State of the Fashion Union blogging carnival. It's a countdown to New York Fashion Week, and you can find out more about this event through Almost Girl or FashionTribes.

State of the Fashion Union Blogging Event begins today

It's Friday and the blogging event starts today! I just realized that, I almost forgot, my mind has been elsewhere. I've been working on patterns and samples. I have an online retailer that would like to carry the line, but will not order unless I have pattern support. Just when you estimate how long it'll take you do finish a project, it ends up taking three times longer. That was my motto in college.

So on with the blogging event! If you want to see what other participating bloggers are writing about, be sure to check out the hosts, Almost Girll and FashionTribes.

Heart Me

(Left: Luella, SS 2006. Right: Alice Temperley heart sweater, FW 2004)

Several Spring 2006 designer collections featured hearts. It's a trend that will never go away as the world is always in need of a little more love. What better way to show it than wear your heart on your sleeve...or waist.

Bring it on!

(Left: Ralph Lauren, SS 2004. Right: Paul Smith, 44 2006)

In spirit of Match Point, here's some tennis-inspired knitwear. An ongoing trend that is epitomized by Ralph Lauren. Part of the trend also brought on by the comeback of Lacoste in the last few years.

Match Point

I got to see Match Point last night. I enjoyed every minute of it. Fairly unpredictable despite all the trailers I've seen for it. But I think there is some parallel to the movie, The Talented Mr. Ripley. Match Point is funny without being funny, you won't get that from the trailer. It's what the characters say that is so ironic in context of the plot.

Knitwear in Fashion

I got this book in the mail today! First impression. I love the cover on this book, but unfortunately, I don't think it represents the rest of the photos in the book. Many of the knit designs are far from sexy. Maybe sexy in the wrong way. Not much of what I would want to emulate. Is this book a re-release of this book? Though an innovative look into knitwear in high fashion, some of the designs could have been mistaken for something seen in You Knit What? What's the point of innovation if it's fugly? If I don't aspire to wear it, I won't knit it. I am hoping that the text portion of the this book is good...

Women I admire - in no particular odder

(Left, Sofia Coppola, Right, Phoebe Philo)

Martha Stewart: A self-made multi-millionaire who has built an empire from nearly nothing and built it out of "being domestic". How powerful is that?Don't hate her 'cause she's got a fempire.

Sofia Coppola: One of few female film directors who's been nominated for an Oscar and won. Her win is huge and yet the media made little fuss over it. She is a visionary.

Tara Subkoff: Designer for Imitation of Christ, "enemy of the system", I love that she says what she feels, and isn't afraid to take a stand. Been quoted for "accusing" the industry showing favor for gay males and model-esque designers. Having been in that industry, I know exactly what she means. It's not a joke, and another example of a male-dominated industry.

Phoebe Philo: Former designer for Chloe. I love her style. Her recent leave from Chloe has been speculated as "being too fragile" for such a large company. What the? She left for personal reasons, one for to spend time with her newborn. I respect that. She was in so much demand that the house of Chloe built a studio for her in London so she wouldn't have to commute to Paris as often.

Feist: Have you heard her sing? I first heard her when I saw Phoenix play in London. I kept saying, Who is this girl? I want to know! Turned out she was Canadian, and one of the coolest women in music.

School Spirit

(Left, Luella Bartley, right, Marc Jacobs SS 2006)

Sweater trend for Spring 2006? Absolute preppy, no let's make it "violently preppy" (see Almost Girls' Violently Aspirational post). See the ivy league look at Lacoste, Kenzo, Hilfiger, Paul Smith. Marc Jacons was so into the school girl theme, he had a marching band play Smells like Teen Spirit during the show.

Knitting Basket- Scarborough

Knitting Basket (Bridelwood Mall, 2900 Warden Ave, Scarborough) is now carrying Fable! This order came right after the Metro mention. The store owner got a phone call from a customer requesting the product. This is one of few knitting shops in a mall. Mall hours also apply.

Fable in Metro

It's a bit early for me to be this excited in the morning, but for good reason. Fable is in the paper! In today's Toronto edition of Metro, Natalie-Roze Fischer, columnist of Frugal Fashionista did a write up about the ultra-luxe baby alpaca. The only thing is, I can't get a hold of a printed copy! They're a free paper targeted to subway riders, in which case I am no longer a commuter. Oh well, I guess I can print my own copy...

Graphic Stripes

(Left, Sienna Miller in a Sixties inspired photo shoot for Vogue January 2006 issue. Right: Dior sweater as seen in Wallpaper)

One way to see into what designers might be thinking is to look at upcoming movies. Major movies that are situated in a certain time period can be an indicator of upcoming trends. I've been anticipating the release of Factory Girl (Sieena MIller plays Edie Sedgwick), and it looks like so have others. Designers who had Sixties on their mind this Fall includes Chanel, Burberry (above), McQueen, and Dolce & Gabana. And you can't do Sixties without bold graphic stripes- something you might want to incorporate into o your knitting!

Suing over crochet

(Both Chanel SS 2006)

To add to the discussion about the Most Copied Sweater, I read today about Chanel being sued by World Tricot. World Tricot is a knitwear manufacturer that also does the knitwear production for Dior, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy and Kenzo. World Tricot is claiming that Chanel is counterfeiting one of their designs and breech of contract. The evidence? A piece of white crochet that was supposedly proposed to Chanel and rejected versus a crochet Chanel vest. The case seems rather confusing as I read the story. Form what I understand, World Tricot produced a sample for Chanel, but rejected it, and somehow Chanel decided to produce them some other way? From working in the industry, often times designers will choose more than one vender to produce a sample and compare it quality and price before making a decision as to which vender to use. So I am rather confused, is Tricot claiming that they designed the vest? How is it possible to counterfeit your own product? This case is very strange. I wanted to find the "offending vest" but did not find what they were talking about. I find the wrap sweater above, is that it? So what is it now, we can sue over crochet? Chanel is countersinking...

Knit Social- an open invitation

I've been thinking about starting a knitting group for some time now. A group that is sort of like Cast Off Knitting Club for Boys and Girls. It would be in the Toronto area and I would call it Knit Social. It's a play on the term "closely knit social groups". And the mandate is to spread the good word of knitting to anyone who wants to learn. Speak up if any of you are interested. It's not meant to replace formal knitting classes, but rather just to get people started into it. It's meant to be more of a social group and take away the intimidation that new or non-knitters might feel. Guys welcome.

So when I said business is going slow at the moment, I mean it. I feel lucky to have seven retailers under my belt, but where am I going to pull out more? I've called countless shops and they're "not interested in the it at the moment". One of the shops I've always wanted to carry my stuff is "committed to her vender". God bless her, she was really nice about it and had nice feedback about it. I hope my retailers are committed to Fable.

On the other hand, some good news is that the Knitting News Cast plugged Spun magazine on their current podcast and Rhonda mentioned the two patterns I have on there.

Graphic Fairisle, part 2

(Left: Taken from Elle Magazine. Right: Stella McCartney, AW 2004-5. Fairisle can be subtle yet chic, Grandmother would approve.)

Here's another take on fairisle. The Elle tearsheet is a few years old, but still looks right for today.

Knitting for the Neck

(Left: Nina Ricci, Right, YSL, AW 2005-6)

How pretty is this? So easy to do, yet not really anything you can buy. Goes so well with basic black sweaters, pair it with jeans and pumps. I particularly like the first one because it would be knitted in the round, makes for good old mindless knitting in front of the tv.

Still working on it

Business is going at a slow pace. I'm getting enquires from the US, but no real answers yet. At least the word of Fable is getting out, right? I'm working on two patterns that are going to be available free on the website. It's a scarf and mitten set. I've been prolonging this project, giving myself so much time to do it. I should get it over it and finish it.

Last night's Gilmore Girls was really good. It was really entertaining, the story line and everything was well played out. The best episode in a long time. Finally! Not to spoil for those that haven't seen it yet, but I love Loralai's wedding dress! It really is perfect. I loved that the wedding plans included an 18th century carousel. How gorgeous would that be!

The Most Copied Sweater

(Both sweaters by Chloe, both has been copied...alot)

When separates a degas from being a blatant copy from a design that was "inspired by" a similar design? In CoCo Chanel's time, she would have said "Let them copy!" But would that statement even hold true in today's business world? The Chanel jacket has become such an icon that all the top designers have sought inspiration from it at point in their career. The Chanel jacket is a staple item in today's standards. So is it the test of time that makes designing a Chanel look alike acceptable?

The blog owner at The Girl from Auntie, is a patent lawyer. According to her, what differentiates blatant copying from "inspired by" is, how original is the design to begin with? What are the trademark characteristics of the design? This area falls under the intellectual property protection. So I've heard so concerns from knitwear designers about copyright protecting their work from commercial use. But what if what they are trying to protect is a copy of a commercial design? The knit pattern being a copy of a commercial product. So whose right is it?

Take for example, exhibit A, the Chloe sweater, that's been copied so many times by clothing retailers (pictured above). I've seen countless knock-offs of this design, some slightly altered. Now I find a pattern for it in KnitScene. Did they pay Chloe for it? It's a pretty close copy, not much has been changed, the button placement, the stitch, the drawstring, all in the same proportion the original. There's no possibility that it was a coincidence. No, someone else's got their name on the design. So much for calling it the Chloe sweater. Now see, exhibit B, how close of this sweater from Vogue Knitting to the second Chloe sweater above?

So, is the Chloe sweater considered an original design? It is because all the knock-offs are referencing the original Chloe design. But if more time had passed, and retailers were still selling this design, would it make it a staple rather than an original that has claims to intellectual property? The House of Chloe is known to fight back, so it's not the wisest idea to copy them too much, if at all. UK retailer KooKai got sued for copying them so much.

Please note, I am not accusing anyone of copying, that not for me to judge. I am just pointing out the issue of where the boundary lies. I think designers deserve credit for intellectual property.

On another note, Phoebe Philo, the designer for Chloe has officially resigned, after fours years. Her decision to leave was so she could spend more time in the personal life with her new baby. It's bittersweet to see her go, but I'm certain we'll see her work up again soon.

Graphic Fairisle

(Left: Max Mara, AW 2005-6, RIght: Yohji Yamamoto, AW 2004-5)

Currently fascinated by how designers have updated the use of fairisle. I love how bold and graphic the result is. The look is also simplified so even those with less fairisle experience can achieve this modern look.

Not pleased...

UPS has made it extremely difficult for me to do my own customs paperwork to bring in my package from the US. Apparently they are not bonded, meaning they do not have a license to bring in packages past the port of entry until the duties are paid for. Normally, I could go to a customs office and have it released, but because they are not bonded the paperwork could only be filed in Windsor. I ordered a SewEZ board like the one Sweet Georgia has from blocking knits. On top of the shipping rate, I had to pay an extra $30 dollars for their brokerage fee. How excessive is that. I will never use UPS again. United Parcel Sucks.

Update: I got the blocking board in today. I love it, it's brilliant. Much heavier than I expected. If you're a serious knitter, a worthwhile inventment. Can't wait to use it. If you get it from here, don't let them send it with UPS if you're ordering from Canada.

Update: I just got my credit card bill and the price I have to pay for this SewEZ board is triple the actual price of the board! I am glad I have the board, but dammm it! The stupid courrier is out to take your money. I ended up paying double the price of the board for the shipping. Sigh...

Needles & Knits- Auora

Needles & Knits (15040 Yonge St, Aurora) is carrying Fable Handknit starting today. One of the biggest shops I've ever visited, they're in a converted house. They carry a large range of yarns, lots of space to sit a watch a demonstration from the owner, Tove. And they carry a extensive collection of knitting books and magazines, you might find back issues and harder to find pattern books here.

Some thoughts on 2005

(Above: Star Wars clock that chimes every hour in Ginza, Tokyo)

Isn't life just so unpredictable? I never thought I would end up what I do now! Early 2005 started off with such uncertainty for me. Like what am I going to do? I don't just want a job, I want a career, but in what? I spent a month moonlighting as an illustrator.

Soon after, Fable popped into my head. I'm serious, it was one vision of what a knit brand could be like that convinced me that it could be done.

Visiting my pal, Angela in New York was awesome. The numerous yarns shops in Manhattan are just beautiful. I hope in 2006, Fable will be available in NY!

I had a brief interruption in way of business planning while away in Japan and Malaysia. But knitting was never far from my thoughts. An incredible trip to remember. Japan is an euphoric culture shock, it's like an entirely different planet. Malaysia is really a second home to me, it's where all my mother's relatives are.

What else was unpredictable? I never thought I would start a blog. Not until I found so many incredible knit-related ones that compelled me to start one of my own. I've gotten to meet so many amazing people, even if it is only through email.

Special thanks to everyone who's been dropping by and leaving such nice comments!