Good on Paper

(Left: drawing by Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent. RIght drawing by Tracy Reese. via style.com)

I was thrilled to find this slide show of illustrations by various designers. I love seeing their sketches; how they express their vision on paper can be far more animated than the real thing.

French Fauves

(Left: Rick Owens, FW07. Right: Jean-Paul Gautier, FW 07. via Style.com)

So tell me, is "beastly" te new beauty? Several shows so far and I am not yet thrilled by the Paris collections. There seems to be a "wild" aspect to them, best described as Fauvism. Rick Owens showed many shaggy mohair cardigan wraps and bulky knit caps (when shown in white, it kinda looks like a Marie Antoinette wig). Gautier's show, while the elaborate crochet was impressive i the technical sense, it felt wasted on the face coverings.

Forget Fur...

(Left: Fendi, FW07. Right : Pucci, FW07)

Prada was not the only designer showing yarn as furry substitutes: Fendi, while their collection was still laden with fur, contrasted it with their yarn 'm feathers handbags.while Pucci showed one Yeti poncho, and Max Mara showed many pieces with chunky crimped wool fringe. Aquascutum, from London fashion week, showed chunky yarn fringe poking out it shoulders on its cable knits.



(Left: Max Mara, FW07. RIght: Aquascutum, FW07. All via Style.com)

Ok, so like don't take this as my personal endorsement for this look. You can thank Ghesquière for starting it back in 2002. I just report the trends. But if you wanted to make a shag rug for your home, I can be of guidance.

"Cheap Chic" won't come cheap...

("Fake Classic at Prada FW07, via)

To the surprise of PETA protectors at the Prada show, no model on the runway were sporting fur. These shag-pile knits were made of precious alpaca, and hi-tech wool fusions, intended to look "cheap" ("eyelash" yarn comes to mind, still a "don't"!). Even stranger were her laminated knits!

This reminds of Marc Jacobs' Chinatown shopping totes at Louis Vuitton for this Spring.Oh, the irony, fashion has gotten bored with conventional luxury and sought inspiration from the dollar store. Funnier still, it doesn't make the "original" any more desirable though.

Sweater Coars... Hybrid vs. Traditional

(Both via The Sartorialist in Milan)

I just spotted this amazing coat on the left. I love how designers are applying knitted pieces to wool coats this season. Winter in Milan looks lovely, not too cold. As soon as the weather warms up I'm ditching my coat for an alpaca cardigan coats. As much as I love my long quilted down coat with shiny buckled slide belt, I'm bored.

Show Time in Milan

(Left: Burberry Prorsum FW07, via. Right: Pringle of Scotland, FW07, via).

What I love about the shows in Milan is that while not everything is practical, they are at least wearable. Christopher Bailey showed a collection that is of "medieval proportions". My first impression of it was that these girls were going to battle in their shiny leather gloves over the knee boots, they looked robotic in that sense. The Pringle collection showed many knits, as that is what they're known for. I picked these two looks because I love knitted coats.

DIY Q&A: Size Matters

Dear Andrea,

The sweater pattern I want to use is written for small finished bust, (36") only. The designer says, "if you were to add 4-6 stitches it would work for larger sizes." This doesn't seem adequate to me. The yarn knits up 2 sts per inch and 3.1 rows per inch on # 11 needles. I would like to make it 40" finished. Is there a nifty formula for adding stitches based on body measurements, type of yarn, gauge, etc.

If you know of a good knit sizing & design book, could you please pass that along also?

Thanks so much for your time,

Joy


Dear Joy,

Yes! You can "re-formulate " a pattern to suit your size. I had intentions of writing a post like this, so thanks for asking!

Let's start with the basic principle of using gauge to calculate the stitches and rows needed for whatever measurements.

For calculating stitches for width:

sts per inch x width'= sts for width
2 sts per inch x 40"= 80 sts

The same can be said for calculating rows for length:

rows per inch x length"= rows for length
3.1 per inch x 18"= 56 rows (round up decimals)

The reverse can also be done to figure out the the width or length in stitches or rows given.

sts / sts per inch= width"
99 sts / 5.5 sts per inch= 18"

rows / rows per inch= length"
150 rows / 7.5= 20"

But that's not all! You may need to add ease to your pattern. Otherwise it will be skin-tight.


Explaining Ease

Ease is extra width added. It can vary according to what kind of fit you desire and yarn thickness. For bulky yarns, add 2-4" ease all around. The reason being that thicker yarns knit up thicker, but also tighter in circumference. What this means is that if you used the same measurements from a pattern for a light weight sweater and substituted it for a bulky one, you might find it too tight around the body.

For making a larger size, it is not just a matter of adding width to a pattern. Body length is also important. On average, you could add increments of 1" from the size you are grading up from. So if you are working from a size 36 pattern, a size 40 pattern should be 2" longer. Length is also added to the armholes and sleeve cap height. Usually in increments of 1/2-1" per size. The same goes for sleeve length. Since you are customizing the pattern for yourself, be sure to measure yourself and tailor it to your own needs!

For your pattern, I would figure out just how much ease was added to the pattern. If the pattern is for size 36, and it says to cast on 39 sts for the front and back pieces, then I would do the calculations for 36" without ease to figure how much was added. Divide the bust measurement in 2 to get the width of the front and back pieces, 18". Multiply that by 2 sts per inch, which is 36 sts. Calculate the difference, which is 3 sts, 1 1/2" on front and back pieces, which is 3" all around ease. So whatever measurements I use for the body width, I will add the extra 3 sts for ease. So for example, a size 40, I would cast on 43 sts.

Because of my background in fashion design, it was easy for me to pick up the concept of working out sizing in knitwear (though, it's not my favorite thing to do!). I have to admit that I don't have many knitting books. The one book I tend to go to is Vogue Knitting, which has a section on designing your own knits. The book I recently reviewed , also explains the subject of re-gauging a pattern, if that is all you're after. I did a search on books for knitwear design and found these.

I truly believe that knowledge is power; and passing this on to other fellow knitters can give them the freedom to knit whatever they want with confidence. Isn't that what it's all about anyways?

Happy Knitting!

Andrea

Fright or Delight...?

(From Giles, FW07, via)

The girls are the Giles show looked like little Barbies in these massive knits. Some of the other knit pieces looked "beastly". Was anything from this show wearable? Not one bit, I guess that's the "show" aspect.

Who said Knitting wasn't sexy?

Left: Tao Kurihara, via. RIght: Aquascutum, FW07, via)

Saw this From Aquascutum today and it reminded me of this piece from Tao Kurihara (also designer for Comme des Garcons). Exquisite work.

Book Review and Giveaway: When Bad Things Happen to Good Knitters

(When Bad Things Happen to Good Knitters: An Emergency Survival Guide (Paperback) by Marion Edmonds, Ahza Moore.)

I was asked by the publisher to review this book, When Bad Thing Happen to Good Knitters. No matter the level of skill, even the most accomplished knitters will make an error on occasion. So there's nothing to feel bad about! There are solutions!

The book is laid out in four sections:

1. Emergency Prevention: This is sort of an introductory section to knitting. Any new beginning knitter confused about needless size, casting on, binding off, gauges, swatches, tools, will find answers about these here. There is also a section on how to re-gauge your knitting pattern for the yarn you want to use. (I meant to write a post about this, but I think they explain it better).

2. Secret Language of Knitting Patterns: This section helps you to understand knitting patterns, how to choose your size, abbreviations, how to increase, decrease.

3. Good Knitting Gone Wrong: This sections is laid out in question and answer format, it highlights problems such as how to fix dropped stitches, how to fix twisted stitches and more.

4. Don't Let Finishing Finish You Off: This section features the types of finishes you can use, with diagrams on how to do it.

The book is an easy- read, and it explains just about everything you might want to know in simple terms. Mt only complaint is that some unnecessary jargon is used, such as referring to Right Side as "Public Side" and Wrong Side as "Private Side". It is a neatly packaged book to pull out when you need answers. I would mostly recommend this book to new knitters who are still trying to figure out this world of knitting. This should solve the intimidation factor that new knitters face. Experienced knitters might be more inclined to find their answers in the big book of Vogue Knitting.

I taught myself to knit through books and magazines. It can be hard to find all the answers in one book, so I think this one does. I wish I had this book when I started out, then I wouldn't have gone through so much trial and error. Discouraged knitters need to read this book!


GIVEAWAY
***
To thank you loyal readers, I requested two extra copies to giveaway! To qualify for this random draw, leave ma a comment and tell me your worst knitting nightmare and if you found a solution to solve it. Please include an email address. These comments are moderated, so I will not publish them. Contest closes February 22nd, 2007. I will contact the winners on February 23rd via email.

Twinkle Knits

(From Twinkle's Big City Knits: 31 Chunky-Chic Designs by Wenlan Chia, via)

The stylish knitting book by Twinkle is out. No doubt the styling of the book is sleek, a nice contrast to her chunky knit-style. The only thing that draws me back from buying this book is that everything is done in bulky yarns. More pictures from Elle.com, publisher, and yarn distributor.

Cold Weather Solution

(Left: Michael Kors, FW07, via Style.com. Right: Max Azria, FW06, via Elle.com)

I like this hat/hair volition. Sometimes I just want to keep my hair tied back, but wearing a cap isn't going to work with it. . And so easy to make one for yourself. It's just a tube in the round and you can make as simple or as complex as you want.

A'int it funny how...

(Left: from Teen Vogue. Right: Vera Wang, FW07, via Style.com)

It's interesting to see how fashion information today has transcended in lightning speed. Not only can we view the latest collections within hours, or at least one day after the show. And then there is the other interesting aspect, fashion trickling upwards. For example the noted photo from Teen Vogue that La Femme commented about last November about the babushka (which happens to be a sweater that was cleverly tied), has translated into the current Vera Wang show (she did several variations in knit, satin, leather shearing). We also saw a version of it at the Marc Jacobs show. And another thing I noticed, this photo by the Sartorialist, was this the inspiration for this look at Michael Kors?

The streets have never been a better indicator of fashion.

Gone Sweater Watching...

(Left: Michael Kors FW07. Right: Proenza Schouler, FW07. Both via Style.com)

Was an admirer of Proenza Schouler for their first few collections, but later one was not longer convinced.. This season changes that. I love this flapper inspired collection, their white dresses with black beading, cloche hats, and their hybrid sweater jackets and coats. Michael Kors delivers his all-American style yet again, and did not disappoint. Particularly loved this gradated cable knit dress.

Thurday Thirteen

(Left: Lost in Translation, by Sofia Coppola. Right: Confessions of a Window Dresser, by Simon Doonan.)

Oh, look, I've been tagged by my dear cousin, Violet. Here's 13 things about me.

1. I went to an arts high school and I majored in visual arts. I had a fabulous art teacher whom, I believe is one of biggest influences that time. He encouraged us to study contemporary art and took us to see the coolest galleries.

2. I am mostly vegetarian. I started about three years ago. I am not vegan though, I still love fine cheese. I found that there were health benefits to eating this way, and I found that my taste palette to be more sensitive.

3. I'm not really into perfume. The only designer fragrance I own is Burberry London and even that I only wear on rare occasions.

4. I love to stay up at night to listen to the radio programming on CBC 1. Their overnight broadcast is programming from overseas such as the Netherlands, Russia, Sweden. I like to know what it's like elsewhere and I find their documentaries fascinating.

5. I started knitting in high school. But I never really made an actually object or garment until after university. I am mostly self-taught and never really followed any patterns the way they were intended.

6. I met the French band, Air on their stop in Toronto. Me and my best friend stayed out after the concert and were invited in by their manager to hang with them. Isn't that hard to believe? Well, it's true. I m thrilled to know that their new album is coming out next month.

7. One thing I got to check off in my life's to-do list, was working as a shop/window dresser. I adored Simon Doonan's book and his work during high school. After university, I got to work at Holt Renfrew. Those were fun times and they used to do these lavish in-store shows and in-store appearances by designers. I ran into half of D-squared while working there.

8. I took French immersion in middle school. A good portion has stuck, but I can only vaguely understand the French when they speak.

9. Some shameless self-promotion here; I have a publication coming out this Fall with Chronicle books.

10. I love the shoe Ugly Betty and have only missed one episode. I am also loving the show Men in Trees.

11. My best friend and I went to Paris right after classes ended in university. We ventured north of Sacre Coeur to get to the markets. Little did we know we were in a shady part of what one might call ghetto Paris. Being a bit lost, a kind gentlemen leas us to the train station by bus to get to the Eiffel tower. There are nice French people

12. I don't like having my picture taken. Whenever I go on vacation, most of pictures are of the landscape and odd details I noticed,

13. I love drama type movies. I love Lost in Translation and Virgin Suicides. and love most of whatever Nicole Kidman is in.

Now that I actually finished this long meme, I get to tag someone. I'll be fair and not get anyone who's had a meme recently. I tag, Danielle, Kate, and Melissa.

The Cloche

(Both Marc Jacobs FW07, via style.com)

Did any of you fashion observers notice how clean-swept Mr Jacobs is looking these days? I noticed that last fall when he showed for Louis Vuitton Spring 2007. What a transformation! And the same can be said about his Fall 2007 collection. The direction seems to be 1920's old- time movie starlets, Sschiaparellii, Casablanca, drenched in saturated colors and a touch of Halston in the last number, It was refreshing to seeing that he has moved on from vagabond chic. With Marc, you can never really tell what's happening next.

Pictured above, his hybrid of the cloche, knitted on top and a firm brim. Lovely.

Afterthoughts...
What's really interesting about this collection is how simple the clothes are but how complex the interpretation can be. The collections references so many decades of fashion history, the time between the decades seem to blur. MJ may be all about the clothes themselves, but the conceptual implications are mind-blowing and highly emotional.

Cold Mountain

(Left: Nicole Miller's Peruvian inspired look, FW07. Right: Ralph Lauren, FW06. Both via Style.com)

We're having a deep freeze here in Toronto, and fashion week in NY is just as cold. Everyone is bundled up in furry hats and scarves. I have taken a liking to blanket shawls. Perhaps am even more primitive form of the (dreaded) poncho? What I hated about the poncho was its lack of ability to flatter and impracticality, especially under a coat. I suppose the more simple something is, the more versatile it can be.

Blanket Statement

(Left: "Bag Lady" chic via The Sartorialist. Right: Cabled Cardigan from Rowan Scottish Inspirations, via)

Not so fast... it's not spring yet! All the shops are selling their spring lines, but I can't even begin to think spring yet. There's still another three month's minimum before we get to open toe sandal season... Cozy up in a blinker or a blanket wrap cadr. A great transitional piece for instead of wearing a jacket in early spring.

Crochet Dressing, Part II (get out your crochet hook!)

(Left: from Rowan no. 41, via. Right: Crochet tunic, Oscar de la Renta, $2,450, at Bergdorf Goodman, via)

When I was in middle school, crochet sweaters were actually "in". And I had one from Wal-Mart, and surprisingly, by todays standards, it would be considered high street worthy today. I wonder where it went... Anyways, like I said earlier, crochet trims are a lovely decorative touch. I read that a new shop in Toronto opened last November that sells crochet rim by the yard. I'm going to check it out today. It's called Americo Original, they import yarns, knitted and leather goods from Argentina.

Isn't the Oscar mini dress to die for?